Zenos E10S (2 litre turbo) and E10R (2.3 litre turbo)
– Hints and tips for enjoying and looking after your car
Suspension set up/Tyre pressures
If you are using your car on the road and also attending track days regularly we recommend a slightly more “aggressive” geometry set up to get the Avon ZZS/ZZR tyres working properly. These cars are extremely sensitive to changes in geometry and tyre pressures so paying proper attention to these will make a big difference to how the car feels and thus your confidence in and enjoyment of the fantastic handling. If you are using different tyres or using the car only on track please contact us to discuss more bespoke geometry/spring/damper options.
Tyre pressures should be around 23 to 26 psi warm front and rear for general road use. On track you should check all 4 corners back to between 26-28 psi after every session (the tyre temps and pressures will increase as the car is driven harder, so you will need to let air out after the first 3 or 4 outings until you find the right level – known as “equalisation”).
Tyre performance will reduce (and wear/degradation will increase dramatically) if the car is driven hard on track with tyre pressures in excess of 27/28 PSI – you must keep the pressures under 30 psi otherwise you will quickly ruin the tyres!
Don’t forget to re-inflate your tyres after the track day – if you were driving hard and it was a hot day, you will have let quite a lot of air out during the equalisation adjustments so your pressures will be very low once the tyres have fully cooled down (check them the following morning or on the way back from the track).
Set ride height so that there is rake on the car such that ride height is 10 mm to 15 mm lower at the front axle line than at the rear of the aluminium beam, with the driver sat in the car. Make sure the person doing the adjustment is competent and has experience with setting up lightweight/mid engine cars (eg lotus exige/elise and Vauxhall vx 220 etc) and conversant with adjustable shock absorbers and shimmed uprights etc.
I run my E10S road car at 105mm front ride height and 115mm rear ride height and speed bumps/steep drive ways are not an issue. If you go much below 100mm at the front you will have grounding issues. NB the carbon floor panels of the tub slope slightly (so that any rain water that gathers on the floor/footwell area runs towards the drainholes in the channel that runs alongside the central aluminium beam) so make sure that the ride heights are not measured from the underside of the carbon floor itself, as this will not give you accurate amounts of “rake”.
Front wheel geo of 1 ¼ degrees negative camber, with tracking parallel (no toe in/out), with the rear also parallel with 1 ¾ degrees of negative camber work well and should be a good starting point/base setting. Once you have got used to the cars handling with this set up you can tweak the camber and toe to suit your particular car and driving style so these suggestions are only a starting point.
If you have an early car, the brake balance (how much work the front brakes do vs the rear brakes) isn’t brilliant with far too much emphasis on the front brakes and not enough work being done by the rears, so the fronts will lock up far too easily and there isn’t enough pedal “feel”.
Fitting the revised brake bias bar and different rear master cylinder that was introduced on later cars (that increases the amount of pressure through the rear brakes reducing the tendency for the front brakes to lock up, especially in the wet) is a good starting point but very fiddly to do as access to the brake master cylinders (sat on top of the pedal box) is extremely difficult – you will have to lie in the car with your head next to the pedals, looking up into the area above the pedal box and have very small hands to get to the rear of the master cylinders with the required tools to undo and swap the master cylinder/bias bar or remove the front bodywork which is bonded on.
Alternatively you can ask us to do it for you, when the car is next serviced.
Regarding brake pads, we can recommend pads that suit your driving style/what the car is being used for so please discuss this with us.
If you are planning to do a lot of track work then you will need to upgrade the rear discs and calipers at the very least and we have two rear upgrades available to suit your requirements and budget, plus a top quality front disc/caliper upgrade for serious track work so please call me to discuss. The brake upgrades can be demonstrated at any of our track days.
Due to where the engines are located at the back of the car the engine bay area gets extremely hot especially if the car is being driven hard. This heat build up – known as “heat soak” effects the Air intake temperature, and as this increases so the power the engine makes reduces. Both the 2 litre and 2.3 litre cars benefit hugely from revised air intake pipework and a better air filter, plus radiator shrouding to force cooling air through it properly.
If you have the budget a better intercooler (and if you are doing a lot of track work or running a 2.3 then a chargecooler is essential) to help ensure your air intake temps stay safe. The 2.3 in particular can suffer catastrophic failures (new engine needed) if you don’t address the cooling issues and are going to drive the car hard so PLEASE PLEASE talk to us before you do a track day if its going to be hot, and we can advise you on how to avoid a very expensive engine failure.
The standard oil for these engines is a 5w30, which is fine for winter time and gentle road use but is not suitable for hard driving in summer temperatures as it is too thin and not sufficiently resistant to high engine temperatures and will get very hot and thin/runny, especially in track day type conditions. We recommend that 10w60 fully synthetic motorsport oil is used during the summer/track day season, and 5w30 oil is only used during winter time. This will be hugely beneficial for the engine and turbo, keeping them in good condition for longer.
If your car doesn’t have an engine oil cooler fitted then we would also recommend you have one fitted as soon as possible, which we can organise.
We have 3 different versions of front and rear bodywork, including very aggressive front splitter/ rear diffusers and rear wings for competition cars, and have developed a MSA/FIA compliant full roll cage that can be retro-fitted to existing cars for those that want proper safety/crash protection or to go racing…….
There are a few other upgrades that we are currently working on that we will offer to owners once they are proven, including a “T top” rigid roof with side screens and servo assistance for the brakes and different gear box options including sequential shifts – I’ll let you know as soon as they are ready.
Please call John on 07547 663773 if you have any questions.
October 2016 – updated April 2018